Via Ferrata Routes
During the past 8 years there has been an interesting growth of Via Ferrata routes in the Alicante and Valencia Provinces and region of Murcia. Most of the routes climbed by our club are listed below.
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Via Ferrata Xorret de Cati
A simple route and suitable for beginners. It was constructed in 2009 on an unusual rock formation. The route is well equipped and includes several short traverses and a slight overhang on one section. The short distance between bolts is irritating as it requires constant clipping in and out of the safety wire. The ascent is 50 metres. There are two bolted rings for descending by abseil if required. Normal descent is via a short gully a few metres east of the summit and protected by a wire. Location Castalla. Estimated grade 2. Easy access. Duration 30 minutes.
Via Ferrata del Albir
Constructed in May 2016 on the wall of the old quarry, the route consists of about 60 stemples at a total height of 30 metres. There are two minor traverses, a short left offset section and an overhang on the final 4 metres. Descent can be by foot or a 15 metre abseil. This is an ideal route for beginners and good preparation for the Ponoch Via Ferrata. Park 38.568260, -0.063322
Location of Via Ferrata 38.562983, -0.064524
Estimated grade 2+. Easy access.
Duration 45 minutes including abseil.
Via Ferrata del Castillo de Salvatierra. Height 780m
An easy route overlooking the beautiful Castillo de Salvatierra in Villena. The route is very modern and was extended in 2008 to include a second Tibetan wire bridge and another parallel route. To complete all sections it is necessary to reverse down the first wall to pick up the new route. Several short sections are vertical but should present no problem to anyone with grade 2 scrambling experience. Location Villena. Park. 30S 0686538 4278548 Start. 30S 0686958 4278655
Estimated grade 2+. Easy access. Duration 1 hour.
Serra del Cid. Height 1104m
A well established Via Ferrata route. It was originally a rock climbing route in the 1970’s but suffers badly from rock erosion. Numerous sections have wire and chain protection although there are several exposed ledges. Heavy rains often damages some pitches so it’s advisable to climb in drier weather. Some experience in rock climbing is advisable for this route. Easy 25 minute access by track. Location Petrer. Estimated grade 4. Duration 1.5 hours.
Monte Ponoch. Height 1186m
Constructed in 2006 this route is currently the longest in the Alicante Province. The route starts at 589 metres and terminates at about 770 metres. Exiting the summit is via a short track and then two abseils of 30m and 35m that return to within 30m of the start point. With several long vertical sections and one slight overhang this is not a route for beginners. Experience in rock climbing is advised because of the exposure and abseils. Easy 20 minute track access.
Location Polop. Park. 30S 0748290 4278197 Start. 30S 0747859 4278424. Estimated grade 4. Duration 1.5 hours for two people.
Warning! October 2016. Route closed in April for vital repairs. The abseil route is not affected.
March 2017. Route still closed and no news of any reopening date.
Installed at Tavernes de la Valldigna in July 2006 the route starts in the Barranco de la Penya Roja. A 3 metre abseil is followed by a short Tibetan bridge and then 9 stemples. The main 55 metre vertical crag is then reached by a short scramble. A further 128 stemples lead to the the summit. The 25 minute descent is via the PR–38 hiking track. Several stemples are hard to reach and require some technical moves. Estimated grade 4+. Easy 40 minute access. Park. 30S 0736838 4329103 Start. 30S 0735075 4328955
Estimated grade 4. Duration 45 minutes.
Located in Alboy just outside of Xátiva, L’Aventador is easily accessed from the Chopada recreational area. The via ferrata ascent is about 100 metres with no traverse. The stemples are widely spaced and there are several short overhangs which makes the route technically and physically challenging. There are beautiful views of the Río Albaida from the summit. The return route is anti-clock wise from the summit. Easy parking at the Cova Negra. Park 31 0256408 4292514 Estimated grade 4+. Duration 30 minutes.
Penya del Figueret. Height 695 m
Construction commenced in August 2010 by Club Excursionista Relleu. The route has been well planned with vertical pitches and a traverse. The route ends on the Penya ridge located a few kilometres outside of Relleu. Total ascent 90 metres. Exiting the summit can be via a 25 metre abseil from a large bush or a 30 minute scramble along the ridge. Total return 1 hour. Easy 10 minute access. Estimated grade 3. Duration 30 minutes.
Warning! October 2014. Although the last 5 stemples have still not been fitted a new rope has been installed in the short exposed gully. The final ascent is still not secure.
Warning! June 2013. The five stemples fitted last year on the left hand side of the short exposed gully near the summit have still not been glued in. The safety rope on the ridge is frayed and broken in places. The route is still dangerous and it looks like the project has been abandoned.
Warning! June 2012. The four stemples have now been glued in. Five more stemples have been fitted on the left hand side of the short exposed gully but they have not been glued in. A new rope has been fitted in the gully but using the rope is a dangerous manoeuvre with exposure of 80 metres. At the moment the route is only suitable for experienced climbers. The exit from the summit is still unsatisfactory and a suitable route needs to be made and marked. More news will be posted later in the year.
Warning! July 2011. The Penya del Figueret route had not been completed. Four stemples were not glued in, a section of safety wire was loose and a temporary safety rope on the last pitch was frayed and dangerous. We summited by scrambling a grade 3 short ridge and then setting up a belay. The Club Excursionista were unable to provide a completion date. For this reason we have excluded the GPS coordinates. More news will be posted later in 2012.
Morena de Montsant.
Located in the comarca of Priorat the route was constructed in 2002 and updated in 2005 by GEAM AEC Reus. It includes a Tibetan wire bridge. Access is via the beautiful village of Montsant. The total ascent is 250 metres. Return 1 hour. Easy access 45 minutes. Estimated grade 3 to 4. Duration 45 minutes.
Regina de Peramola.
Located in the comarca of Alt Urgell the route was constructed in 1997 by Josep Veregara, Verena Masius and Xavi Vidal. In a beautiful location overlooking the Pantana de Oliana the route is spectacular with plenty of exposure. The Tibetan wire bridge provides added thrills. Total ascent 330 metres with several route grade options. Return 1.5 hours. Easy 20 minute access.
Estimated grade 4 to 5. Duration 3.5 hours.
Built in 1993 by Antonio Garcia Picazo in the camarca of Bages. This was the first Via Ferrata installed in Spain and some pitches are very exposed and in need of repair. The route is spectacular with a final sting in the tail. The last pitch is a scramble up a slippery 40 centimetre wide chimney with a hard to reach chain. You then emerge from this dark crack looking like a hero with a viewing platform full of tourists looking down on you! Ascent 350m.
Moderate 45 minutes access. Return 1 hour 15 minutes.
Estimated grade 4 to 5. Duration 2 hours 30 minutes.
All heights, distances, times, grades and equipment and other information listed on this page are provided in good faith as experienced by the author but may include errors. Anyone attempting these routes should verify the information before commencing the activity in case of errors, route modifications or geological changes.
1.A hike is a long walk. 2. Ascent figures are accumulative starting from the car park. 3. Duration of the event includes short stops, a short lunch break and brisk pace. 4. Distance and ascent figures have been derived by GPS. 5. GPS coordinates. Position Format UTM UPS. Map Datum European 1950. 6. Spanish names are entered in the Castellano or Valenciano form.